交趾田楽 Kōchi dengaku

Cochinchina-Style Dengaku

#78 妙品 Exquisite

English Interpretation

Cut tofu thickly, thread onto skewers, and grill well. Grind generous chili pepper into miso, add a little sugar, spread on the grilled tofu, and toast once more lightly. It evokes the flavors of Kōchi.

原文 · Original (1782)

豆腐を厚めに切りて串に刺し、よく焼くべし。味噌に唐辛子を多く摺り合はせ、砂糖少々加へ、焼きたる豆腐に塗りて、もう一度軽く炙るべし。交趾の風味を想はすものなり。

Transliteration

Tōfu wo atsume ni kirite kushi ni sashi, yoku yaku beshi. Miso ni tōgarashi wo ōku suri-awase, satō shōshō kuwae, yakitaru tōfu ni nurite, mō ichido karuku aburu beshi. Kōchi no fūmi wo omowasu mono nari.

Notes & Annotations

Kōchi (交趾/交阯) is the Japanese term for Cochinchina (southern Vietnam), an important trading partner via the vermillion-seal ship trade. Kōchi-yaki is also a type of ceramic ware. The foreign reference signals exotic refinement.

English Recipe

Ingredients

  • firm tofu 豆腐 1 block (350 g)
    一丁
  • red miso 味噌 3 tablespoons
  • chilli powder 唐辛子 1 teaspoon
    Generous — the spice is the point
  • sugar 砂糖 ½ teaspoon
  • mirin 味醂 a splash
    To loosen the miso paste

Method

Serves 2–4

1. Cut firm tofu into thick slices (about 2 cm) and thread onto soaked bamboo skewers.
2. Grill over charcoal or under a broiler until well-browned on both sides, about 3 minutes per side.
3. Make the Cochinchina-style miso: blend 3 tablespoons red miso with 1 teaspoon chilli powder (tōgarashi), ½ teaspoon sugar, and a splash of mirin until smooth. The spice level should be bold.
4. Spread the spiced miso thickly over the grilled tofu.
5. Return to the grill for 30–60 seconds until the miso bubbles and lightly chars.

The 'Cochinchina' (Kōchi) name signals Southeast Asian influence — the generous chilli sets this apart from standard mild dengaku. Kōchi was also the name for a prized style of ceramic glaze, adding another layer of aesthetic reference.