油煠ながし
Agenagashi
Fried-and-Blanched Tofu
English Interpretation
Deep-fry tofu in sesame oil. Once fried, blanch quickly in boiling water to remove the oiliness. Then prepare a kuzu broth, add the tofu, and simmer for a while before serving. Having passed through three stages, the flavor of the tofu is exceptional.
原文 · Original (1782)
豆腐を胡麻の油にて揚ぐべし。揚げをはりたらば、熱湯にてさつとゆがき、油気を去るべし。さて葛湯を仕立て、此の豆腐を入れ、暫く煮て出すべし。三度の手を経て、豆腐の味はひ格別なり。
Transliteration
Tōfu wo goma no abura nite aguru beshi. Age-owaritaraba, nettō nite satto yugaki, aburake wo saru beshi. Sate kuzu-yu wo shitate, kono tōfu wo ire, shibaraku nite dasu beshi. Sando no te wo hete, tōfu no ajiwai kakubetsu nari.
Notes & Annotations
The NDL newsletter describes this as: 'after frying tofu with sesame oil, blanch it to remove the oil and then boil in kuzu-yu (arrowroot gruel).' The triple transformation — fry, purify, glaze — is characteristic of the zeppin (superb) grade's complexity.
English Recipe
Ingredients
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firm tofu 豆腐 1 block (350 g)一丁 Pressed 15 minutes to remove excess water
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sesame oil 胡麻油 500 ml (for deep-frying)Traditional recipe specifies sesame oil specifically
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kuzu (arrowroot) starch 葛粉 2 tablespoonsDissolve in cold water before adding to broth
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dashi stock 出汁 300 ml
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light soy sauce 薄口醤油 1 tablespoon
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mirin 味醂 1 tablespoon
Method
Serves 2–3
1. Cut the pressed tofu into 8 pieces, roughly 4 × 4 × 2 cm each. Pat thoroughly dry with kitchen paper.
2. Heat sesame oil to 170 °C in a heavy pot. Fry the tofu pieces for 3–4 minutes, turning once, until the surface is golden and crisp. Drain on a wire rack.
3. Bring a fresh pot of water to a rolling boil. Blanch the fried tofu for 30 seconds — this strips the surface oil and purifies the flavour. Lift out gently with a slotted spoon.
4. Dissolve the kuzu starch in 2 tablespoons cold water. Bring the dashi to a simmer with the soy sauce and mirin. Stir in the kuzu slurry and cook, stirring, until the broth turns glossy and lightly thickened.
5. Slide the blanched tofu into the kuzu broth. Simmer gently for 2–3 minutes so the silky glaze coats every surface.
6. Serve in warmed bowls, spooning the arrowroot broth over the tofu. Garnish with a pinch of grated ginger or a sliver of yuzu peel if desired.
The triple transformation — crisp from frying, cleansed by blanching, and glazed with arrowroot — is the whole point. Each step changes the texture and elevates the tofu.
1. Cut the pressed tofu into 8 pieces, roughly 4 × 4 × 2 cm each. Pat thoroughly dry with kitchen paper.
2. Heat sesame oil to 170 °C in a heavy pot. Fry the tofu pieces for 3–4 minutes, turning once, until the surface is golden and crisp. Drain on a wire rack.
3. Bring a fresh pot of water to a rolling boil. Blanch the fried tofu for 30 seconds — this strips the surface oil and purifies the flavour. Lift out gently with a slotted spoon.
4. Dissolve the kuzu starch in 2 tablespoons cold water. Bring the dashi to a simmer with the soy sauce and mirin. Stir in the kuzu slurry and cook, stirring, until the broth turns glossy and lightly thickened.
5. Slide the blanched tofu into the kuzu broth. Simmer gently for 2–3 minutes so the silky glaze coats every surface.
6. Serve in warmed bowls, spooning the arrowroot broth over the tofu. Garnish with a pinch of grated ginger or a sliver of yuzu peel if desired.
The triple transformation — crisp from frying, cleansed by blanching, and glazed with arrowroot — is the whole point. Each step changes the texture and elevates the tofu.